How to Use a Button Maker | Two-Press Assembly Steps

Using a button maker takes two presses: load the front shell, artwork, and Mylar, press once, then crimp the pin back with a second press.

Whether you are making a 58 mm large button or a smaller 32 mm version, the workflow stays the same. You assemble the front half of the button in one die, press it, then move the assembly to a second die with the pin back and press again. Getting the orientation right on both presses is what separates a clean button from a crushed one.

What You Need Before You Press

Gather your materials first: a button shell, a printed design, clear Mylar film, and a pin back. You also need a paper cutter or punch if your machine uses pre-cut artwork. Penn State Maker Commons recommends printing your design at the correct diameter before you start cutting, so the image fits fully inside the shell.

Check your design size against your button size:

• 58 mm large buttons used at Penn State Maker Commons accept artwork sized to the full design circle.
• 32 mm small buttons need a proportionally smaller design; check your machine’s template.
• Berkeley Library’s guide for 1.75″ round buttons specifies designs about 1.6″ in diameter, leaving a small margin so the printed edge never shows.

Cut your artwork cleanly. Berkeley’s instructions warn you to insert only one piece of paper at a time into the punch, because double-feeding can jam the cutter or produce a torn design.

Step-by-Step: Load the Front and Press

The front assembly goes in first. The exact die names and orientation vary by machine, but the core workflow is the same across maker spaces.

1. Place the shell in the top die with the sharp edge pointing down, as specified in both Penn State’s and Berkeley’s guides. The shell’s rim should sit level in the die.
2. Layer your artwork face up on top of the shell, centered so the image fills the visible area.
3. Add the clear Mylar film over the artwork. The Mylar protects the print and gives the button its glossy, durable finish. Skipping it leaves the paper exposed to scuffs and moisture.
4. Rotate the die under the press and pull the handle down firmly. Marston Makerspace emphasizes pulling firmly but not forcibly — over-forcing the handle can bend components or strain the machine.
5. Release the handle and rotate the die back out.

Check that the shell edge curled evenly around the artwork before you move on. If the rim looks uneven, the assembly was probably not level in the die.

Crimp the Pin Back With the Second Press

The second press attaches the pin back and completes the button. This step is where beginners most often get the orientation wrong.

1. Place the pin back in the back die with the sharp edge pointing up, per Penn State’s and Berkeley’s guides. The pin side faces you as you look down.
2. Set the front assembly on top of the pin back, artwork side up, so the two halves align.
3. Rotate the die under the press and pull the handle down firmly to crimp the shell edge around the pin back.
4. Release the handle and remove the finished button. The two halves should be locked together with no loose rattle and no visible gap.

The button is done when the front and back halves sit flush against each other. If the halves separate easily, the press did not crimp fully — run it through the second die once more with firm pressure. If you are shopping for your first machine, our tested roundup of the best button makers compares models by die size and build quality.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Most failed buttons trace back to one of four errors. Wrong orientation tops the list: the shell’s sharp edge must point down in the front die, and the pin back’s sharp edge must point up in the back die. Confusing these directions produces a button whose edges will not crimp cleanly.

• Mislaying the Mylar leaves the artwork unprotected. Place it directly on top of the printed design before pressing.
• Double-feeding paper into the punch jams the cutter. Feed one sheet at a time.
• Misaligning components before pressing ruins the button. Double-check that shell, artwork, and pin back sit level in their dies.
• Forcing the handle strains the machine. Pull firmly with steady pressure instead.

When the press finishes, the finished button should feel solid. If the edge has a sharp lip or the back spins freely, the crimp did not seat fully. Run it through the back die once more before you consider it finished.