Gluing down asphalt shingles means hand-sealing loose tabs with asphalt plastic cement, not replacing proper nailing.
When a shingle tab lifts or curls, the fix often comes down to one question: how to glue down shingles so they stay put. The answer is asphalt plastic cement, applied in small spots under each tab. Done right, this seals the shingle against wind and weather. Done wrong, it can soften the shingle coating and cause blisters.
When Gluing Shingles Makes Sense
Asphalt plastic cement is a supplemental seal, not a substitute for fastening. Shingles are nailed down during installation, and the factory self-sealing strip activates in sunlight to bond the shingle above it. You reach for the cement when that seal needs help: after repairs, in high-wind zones, on steep slopes, or during cold-weather installations when the sun won’t activate the strip.
IKO’s manual sealing bulletin also flags three specific conditions where hand-sealing matters:
- High winds that can lift tabs before the factory strip bonds
- Cold weather, when the sealant strip is too stiff to activate properly
If shingles are extensively damaged, curled, or missing, gluing won’t save them. Replacement is the right call there, not spot-sealing.
What Adhesive Works On Shingles
IKO says any good-quality brand of asphalt plastic cement works for sealing shingles. You’ll find it as roofing cement or roof sealant in a can or caulking tube. The chemistry is what matters: it must be asphalt-based to bond properly with the shingle material.
The same bulletin warns against three adhesive types for shingle-to-shingle sealing:
- Butyl rubber
- Silicone
- Neoprene-based adhesives
These don’t bond the way asphalt cement does and can fail under roof temperatures. General-purpose construction adhesive is also the wrong tool. If the product isn’t rated for roofing, leave it on the shelf.
How To Glue Down Shingles: Step-By-Step
IKO’s procedure for manual sealing is straightforward. Work on a dry day with the surface clean and free of debris, and use proper fall protection.
For three-tab shingles: apply one spot of asphalt plastic cement about 1 inch (25 mm) in diameter under each tab. Press the shingle down firmly after applying the cement.
For laminated shingles: apply three spots spaced equally along the shingle length. Press the shingle down to set the bond.
The same logic applies to field repairs on a lifted tab:
- Lift the loose tab carefully so you don’t crack it.
- Clean the area beneath so it’s dry and free of debris.
- Apply a bead or dabs of roofing cement under the tab. Keep it away from drainage paths so water can still flow.
- Press the shingle down firmly to set the bond.
Keep the cement to a small spot. IKO warns that excess solvent in the cement can soften the shingle coating and cause blisters. You also don’t want a messy bead squeezing out onto visible shingle surfaces.
If you’re replacing a shingle that keeps lifting, the real problem may be fastening. Glue can’t fix a shingle that was never nailed down properly.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Roofing guidance and repair guides circle the same errors. Knowing them keeps your repair from making things worse.
- Using construction adhesive instead of roofing cement. General-purpose adhesives aren’t rated for roof temperatures or shingle chemistry.
- Overapplying cement. Excess solvent softens the shingle coating and causes blisters.
- Blocking water flow. Adhesive placed across drainage channels stops water from moving under the shingle.
- Sealing instead of fastening. A shingle that needs re-nailing or replacement won’t be saved by glue alone.
One more note: work with ventilation. Asphalt cement is solvent-based, so use it outdoors and let it cure fully before exposing the area to heavy weather.
If you’re ready to stock up on the right product, our roundup of the best adhesives for shingles compares top-rated options for different roofing repairs.
FAQs
Can I use silicone caulk to seal shingles?
No. IKO explicitly warns against butyl rubber, silicone, and neoprene-based adhesives for sealing shingles together. These products don’t bond properly with asphalt shingle material and can fail under roof temperatures. Use asphalt plastic cement or roofing cement instead, applied in small spots under each tab.
Will roofing cement stop a shingle from blowing off in wind?
Roofing cement helps, but it’s a supplemental seal, not a primary fastener. Shingles are nailed down, with the factory strip providing the self-seal. In high-wind areas, hand-sealing tabs with asphalt plastic cement adds wind resistance, but a shingle that was never properly nailed or that’s too damaged needs re-fasting or replacement, not just glue.
How long does roofing cement take to dry?
Drying time depends on the product, temperature, and humidity. Most asphalt plastic cements cure within 24 hours, but the surface must stay dry during that window for the bond to set properly. Check the product label for the exact cure time, and avoid walking on the glued area until it has fully dried.
References & Sources
- IKO. “Manual Sealing of Asphalt Shingles Product Bulletin.” Details application spots, adhesive types to avoid, and cautions about excess solvent.