How to Put Up Chicken Wire Fencing | A Straightforward Install

Putting up chicken wire fencing means setting posts, unrolling the mesh, and stapling it taut at the top, middle, and bottom to keep poultry in and predators out.

Whether you’re protecting a vegetable patch or building a run, the process for how to put up chicken wire fencing comes down to a post-and-mesh system that resists both pushing and digging. The exact steps stay the same for any yard: plot the line, sink the posts, hang the roll, and anchor the base. Here’s the order that works.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gather everything before you start so the job runs without pauses. Most of these items are standard hardware-store fare.

  • Chicken wire (poultry netting) in the height you need
  • Wooden fence posts or metal T-posts
  • Poultry staples, U-nails, zip ties, or wire clips
  • Post driver or shovel
  • Wire cutters or tin snips
  • Work gloves and safety glasses
  • A hammer and a level (optional but helpful)

Choosing how to space and set your posts depends on soil and fence height. General guidance from The Home Depot’s installation PDFs suggests spacing outdoor fence posts 6–8 feet apart and driving them securely into the ground.

Step-by-Step: Setting Posts and Attaching the Mesh

Mark the fence line with stakes and string so the run stays straight. Then set your posts and hang the wire in this sequence.

1. Set the corner posts first. Dig holes about 1½–2 feet deep at each corner, set the post, and backfill firmly. These carry the tension of the whole run, so they need the most support. Line posts go between them at your chosen spacing.

2. Unroll the chicken wire along the line. Let the roll sit flat against the posts rather than twisting. If you’re working alone, weigh down the loose end with a brick or rock so it stays put while you fasten.

3. Fasten the mesh at the top, middle, and bottom. Use poultry staples on wooden posts—the instructions from the manufacturer PDFs call for staples at the top, bottom, and center of each post. For metal T-posts, switch to zip ties or wire clips, which grip the steel without slipping.

4. Pull the mesh taut as you work. Sagging wire invites predators to push under and gives the fence a sloppy look. Stretch each section tight before you drive the next staple, and keep the tension even from one post to the next.

5. Overlap seams by at least 6 inches. When one roll ends, overlap the next section by 6 inches or more and tie the two layers together with wire or clips.

Success looks like this: the mesh stays flat against every post, the top edge runs level, and no section bows away from the line by more than a finger’s width.

Burying the Bottom Edge to Stop Digging

A fence that ends at the surface leaves an open invitation to raccoons, dogs, and foxes. The fix is to trench the lower edge and bury it.

Dig a shallow trench along the fence line before you finish fastening the bottom. For poultry enclosures, one manufacturer PDF recommends extending the wire 2–4 inches below ground level. You can also fold the bottom few inches of mesh outward in an L-shape before burying it—the buried “apron” blocks animals that try to tunnel straight down.

Backfill the trench and tamp it down so the mesh stays anchored. This single step does more to keep your flock safe than any other part of the install.

Finishing Safely: Folding Sharp Edges and Trimming

Cut chicken wire leaves sharp points that can slice skin or injure a curious bird. Finish the job by folding any trimmed edges inward or downward, per the installation PDF advice, so the points face away from traffic. Wear work gloves and safety glasses while you cut and handle the mesh—the edges are sharper than they look.

Once the top, middle, and bottom are all secured and the base is buried, walk the full length of the fence. Push gently on each section to confirm there’s no slack, and re-staple any spot that gives.

If you’re weighing mesh types, heights, or post options for a bigger project, our tested roundup of the best chicken fencing compares the top choices side by side.

References & Sources

FAQs

What is the best way to keep chicken wire tight?

Stretch each section of mesh by hand before you fasten it, then secure it at the top, middle, and bottom of each post. Pulling the wire taut as you go—rather than fastening it loose and trying to tension it afterward—produces the straightest, most stable fence.

Can I use zip ties instead of staples on wooden posts?

Yes, but staples hold better on wood. Poultry staples sink into the post and grip the wire firmly, while zip ties can slip on smooth or damp wood over time. Save zip ties and wire clips for metal T-posts, where they’re the preferred attachment.

Does chicken wire need to go underground?

For animal containment, yes. Burying the bottom edge 2–4 inches for poultry, or 6 inches to a foot for areas with determined diggers, blocks predators from tunneling under the fence. Trenching and backfilling also keeps the mesh anchored and stable.

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